Box art for the Trumpeter kit
Background
There have been many commercially produced model kits of H.M.S. Hood over the years. The most popular variants appear to be those depicting the ship "as sunk" on 24 May 1941. The latest such kit is Trumpeter Models' impressive 1/350 scale offering.
Trumpeter sought to create the most accurate model kit of Hood to date. To that end, they consulted many reference documents and websites. They also sought out inputs from various experts on the ship. Among those consulted were members of our website staff.
They asked us to review and comment upon the initial kit designs. To facilitate this, they provided us with a basic 1/350 scale "5 view" dot matrix print out of the ship consisting of plan (overhead), port & starboard profiles (side views) and fore & aft views (directly ahead and directly astern). Although the drawings were limited in scope and were a bit "fuzzy", we were able make many corrections and suggestions. In addition to this, we also informed them of a number of recent discoveries concerning Hood's final appearance (things not in any books or existing plans).
The kit finally reached consumers in 2005 and at the time of writing, is still widely available. It retails for roughly £70 / $140 US. Please check with a local or online hobby retailer of your choice for latest prices and availability.
Moulding & Detail
Although we've had no time to actually build the kit, we have been able to look over the parts in great detail: The kit consists of 533 injection moulded pieces moulded in grey and red plastic (the lower hull is moulded in red). The kit contains 8 sprues, upper & lower hull, 4 deck pieces, waterline plate and display base. In addition to the plastic kit parts, Trumpeter also provides decals plus a few photoetch ladders, radar, spars and cables. An instruction manual and colour painting guidelines are also included. Note: Trumpeter also offers a separate 27 piece upgrade set for this model. It consists of machined 4" and 15" guns as well as propeller shafts and screws. Click here for more information.
Our overall assessment is that the kit is very good overall. It is mostly accurate and undoubtedly the best kit of Hood yet issued in this scale. It is probably the second best Hood model overall (second only to Trumpeter's 1/700 1941 Hood). We highly recommend it. Like most kits however, it is not without its problems. Fortunately, most can be fixed with aftermarket parts or other mostly minor modifications. More on this below.
Important Note- Before going any farther, we would just like to say that we don't want to put any potential modellers off. This kit is actually quite acceptably accurate for anyone who wants to build a good representation of Hood straight from the box. Remember that as long as YOU are happy with the results, that is all that counts! So, build her the way YOU want to. As for us, we are simply happy to know that miniature Hoods grace many homes. So, if you like the kit as-is, read no farther.
The purpose of this (or any of our reviews) is not to berate the kit or manufacturer, but to point out problems so that you, the modeller can take corrective steps as you see fit. So, those of you striving to make the most detailed model possible, please do read on.
First of all, there are a few errors, some minor, some major, present in the actual kit itself. These were not noticed until after the kit was in production. We'd like to note that these items looked fine to us in the plans that Trumpeter provided. Unfortunately, the errors would have been impossible to discern- to catch this sort of error in the design phase would have required drawings from various angles and perspectives. There were no such drawings. Second, there are several "new finds" that have been made since the kit's design was finalised (more things that aren't in any books or plans).
We'll cover the specific errors and new finds below. We'll also suggest ways to correct or improve these problems.
Corrections & Suggestions for Improvement
Hull
Hull Plating- The hull plating on the starboard and port sides of the bow and stern is a bit exaggerated (see photo to the right). Its thicker and deeper than it should be at this scale. This is, however, a minor issue and the average modeller can ignore it. Those of you striving for total accuracy can alter the plates if so inclined. The depth of the plating can be reduced through scraping/sanding. It could also be removed then reapplied with thin sheet styrene or built up with tape and paint. Regardless of the method, it can be difficult to get perfect edges and shapes. Click here to see a photo of the bow plates on the actual ship.
Lower Hull Plating- The lower hull (for those of you building the full hull version) is essentially smooth and lacks plating detail. This is another relatively minor issue and something most modellers can ignore. Those wanting intricate details, however, may wish to add the plating (and various water intakes, etc). Sheet styrene, etching, paint buildup, careful shading, etc., could all be ways of adding the detail. A recommended source for the plating detail is the "Hood - Expansion of Outer Bottom Plating" plan which is available from the National Maritime Museum.
Hawse Pipes- There are four of these on the kit...three on the bow and one at the end of the stern. Trumpeter only moulded the raised lips/outer edges. These should be drilled out and connected to the hawsepipe holes in the focsle deck (which also need to be drilled out). The only potential difficulty here is in getting the holes to line up properly and in modeling the pipe that connects them. At this scale, such a feature is quite noticeable.
Some readers have written to us with suggestions for accomplishing this- the consensus seems to fill this section of the bow with plastic, putty, resin or something of this nature. Once curbe to place either putty or resin in the bow allowing it to harden. Afterwards, drill out the pipes, taking great care to align the side and deck openings. Careful sanding combined with deck grates and full anchors will help hide imperfections should there be any. Remember that if you do drill out the hawsepipes, you will also have to build anchors with sheet /tube styrene or purchase them as aftermarket parts.
Hull Portholes/Scuttles- The general placement of portholes/scuttles are close. There are several on the port side of the hull that are slightly out of position though. These are illustrated on the following two images, both courtesy of Maarten Schönfeld of Belgium: Port Bow & Port Stern. Note- the white spots are the filled-in portholes and arrows indicate the corrected locations. There is one error on the starboard side as well- there is a single porthole below the bitts and abreast the capstans needs to be filled-in with putty.
Degaussing Cable- The location of the cable is correct, but the number, size and shape in various areas are wrong. The actual ship had a combination of single and dual cables: There were dual cables (one mounted above the other) fitted around her bow. The top one was slightly thinner than the lower one. These extended rearward until roughly abreast "B" turret. At this point, they connected to a single cable. This single cable ran aft outside the enclosed focsle deck until reaching the point somewhere aft of the quarterdeck break. The exact point is currently unclear, but it would appear to be abreast "X" turret. From here, two cables were used to encircle the stern.
The cable(s) were fitted to the hull as neatly as possible. Fasteners were regularly spaced whenever possible, but in areas on the bow and stern, the fasteners for the twin cables did not always line up vertically. It has always been assumed that the port and starboard side configurations were similar with the exception of the portion that passed above the anchors...there would have been a larger segment of cable to starboard as there were two hawsepipes to pass over. There is however, some question as to the exact layout of the cable at the quarterdeck break- recent photo and film analysis seems to indicate that the cable did indeed dip down on the port side of the quarterdeck. The opposite is true of the starboard side...photographic analysis indicates that the cable did not dip down.
Regarding the portions that passed over the anchors, the Trumpeter kit has wrongly shaped cable fairings. These are the raised panels above the anchor hawsepipes. Recent photo analysis has shown that both sides were "stepped" in appearance. See the image to the right for the specific shape. The railings are in green, the degaussing cable in blue and the stepped fairings are in red. This is a very easy fix- simply file a step-down into each fairing.
Overall, we suggest that modellers remove the moulded on degaussing cable and replace it with an aftermarket brass photoetch cable or strip styrene.
Decks
Forecastle- This part (referred to in the kit instructions as the "Fore deck") needs some minor detail alterations/augmentation. This part needs to have its hawse pipe openings drilled out and connected to the hull side hawse pipes via a short pipe (see "Hawse Pipes" segment above). Also, scrape and sand off the moulded on anchor cable/chain. Aftermarket chain or built up photoetch would be more appropriate for this scale. If you are so inclined, you can also replace the various hatches with aftermarket photoetch hatches (to include adding missing hatches...such as the one behind "B" turret). They simply look more realistic at this scale. This applies to the other main decks as well. We have been told by Gary Dunstand of Australia that the anchor capstans (parts F45 and F46) appear to have been moulded upside down. He suggests clipping off the mounting pins and then attaching the parts upside down.
Shelter Deck- This part (referred to in the kit instructions as the "UP deck") is mostly accurate. It needs some minor changes. Again, if so inclined, replace hatches with photoetch. Additionally, there are some instances of moulded-on vents that need to be replaced or augmented. Two notable examples are the twin vents just forward of the rear/centre splinter shield at the end of the deck. Trumpeter moulded these as small squares rather than rectangular hooded vents. I suggest replacing these with plastic strip stock. Also, Trumpeter forgot to include a ladder way...instead they moulded it as a large protrusion (they mistook its canvas cover as a structural feature). Cut this out and square the edges. Refer to the nearby ladder ways for the correct shape and size.
Quarterdeck- (Rear deck). Replace the hatch just aft of "Y" barbette with photoetch. Add the missing hatch between the rear screens and "X" turret. Also, be sure to drill out the rear hawse pipe. There are also some fairleads missing from this area. Please consult plans to determine size and placement.
Armament/Guns
15" Main Gun Houses/Turrets- The four large gun houses (parts E5 and E7) are the most serious problem with this kit. For reasons unknown to us, Trumpeter modelled these with ridges running around the edges of the roof plates. The ridges correspond to the bolts that held the roof plates in place. The result is that the roof panels look recessed. There was no such ridge on the actual ship...just the bolts. In addition to this, the turrets are also shaped a bit too angular. They lack the square view ports in the front and the small ledge between the barrels. Some of these problems are difficult to fix. One would have to fill in the roof recesses and try not to remove the roof bolts. Alternatively, one could also sand off the bolts and ridges and then reapply the dozens of tiny bolts. It would be tedious and difficult. The best fix would be to replace the kit gun houses with aftermarket resin turrets. You might as well use brass barrels while you are at it.
- "X" Gun House Platforms- Replace these (parts C11 and C12). Do not use any of the current photoetch products as none (to the best of my knowledge) are quite correct. You can use the support brackets, but discard the actual platforms. These were not flat angular platforms in 1941. They were actually two identically sized frameworks (when viewed from above, they were made up of square segments with X cross beams in the centre of each square). Each "platform" consisted of three such squares. The only reason one appears smaller than the other is because of the changing shape of the turret beneath them. This causes a bit of an optical illusion. Click here to see an image of the frameworks (on EJ Foeth's model). For those who still aren't convinced, here are two photos. Still not convinced? Then here is yet another photo. The latest photo to show the frameworks in place was taken in Spring 1941. Needless to say, if anyone disagrees with this, they'll need to have spectacular documentation!
- Vents on "B" and "X" Gun Houses- These gun houses each had a pair of slim vents that were attached to their rear bulkheads. These can be replicated with strip styrene.
Twin 4" Secondary Armament- These seven mounts (parts E11-E13) are largely correct in size and shape but lack detail. You can make these far more realistic by incorporating photoetch and metal barrels.
UP Rocket Launchers- The five UP launchers (parts E33 and E34) suffer from a lack of detail. The base (part E33) is also not entirely accurate...especially the left side. It should be altered to more closely reflect the correct shape of the base. It may also be possible to replace it entirely with an aftermarket resin part. The rocket cage (E34) should either be augmented or replaced with photoetch.
- "B" Turret UP- This mount sat inside a circular base. Detailed photo analysis (since the kit was released) has shown that the splinter shield encircling the base was not uniform in height. It actually doubled in height for short spans directly to port and to starboard. Simply add sheet styrene to the applicable locations on part D15. In the photo to the right, the main UP platform, launcher and ammunition boxes are shown in green. The splinter shield is red. Another view can be seen by clicking here.
Pom-pom Anti-Aircraft Guns- The three pom-poms (parts E14-E16) are actually pretty good for an injection moulded kit. They could be improved by adding additional detail. Augmenting or even replacing the mounts with photoetch would work quite well. They could also be potentially replaced with aftermarket resin parts (which could also be augmented with photoetch details).
0.5" Machine Guns- These four machine gun mounts (parts E5) are too bulky. Replace them with photoetch. Ensure you use shielded variants (Hood's guns had shields). They require more work than just this though- the location of each mount needs to be altered.
- Forward Guns- ("Pip" and "Squeak") are mounted on part A19 (Conning Tower Platform). If you look slightly inboard to where each gun is mounted, you'll see that Trumpeter moulded four small "hatches" (2 per side). This is an error. These were actually ammunition boxes. Remove the erroneous hatches and add small boxes in their place.
- Rear Guns- ("Paul" and "Simon") the guns sat atop pedestals (parts E3). Cut off the circular plastic wall atop the pedestal, and ONE of the two small boxes. These "walls" were actually rails. You can replace them with photoetch.
As for the boxes, they held ammunition aboard the real ship. There was actually only one box mounted on each pedestal (a second box was mounted on the deck inboard of the pedestal).
Forward Superstructure/Bridge
Conning Tower- The view port slits are not the same height. One row in particular is too tall- the ones created by adding part A30 to part A19 (Conning Tower Platform). This is of course, a notable error and it could be difficult to fix. Suggest inserting segments of flat plastic strip stock horizontally. When finishing the Conning Tower, please take care to fill the seams. Most people are building the model and not attempting to hide seams. The result is a somewhat "clunky" appearance that can really detract from the overall quality of the finished model. This is a very notable feature of Hood and great care should be taken to model it accurately.
Since this kit was released, better photos of Hood have come to light. Some of the photos, from very shortly before she sank, show a different raft arrangement on the sides of the bridge superstructure. In reality, there were not two rafts on each side just aft of the conning tower. These rafts had all been moved aft. Two rafts (one to port and one to starboard) was slung alongside the splintershield on the Admirals Signal Platform roughly abreast the rectangular vents. The remaining two rafts were slung alongside stacks of rafts atop the vents below the first funnel (one to port, one to starboard).
Bridge Base/Admirals Signal Platform- This is formed from various parts. My comments only apply to the deck portion (part A1). This is largely correct, but could use some detailing aft. I suggest augmenting or replacing the signal flag lockers (the four rectangular features at the very rear of part A1...they are in blue in the photo to the right) with photoetch. There are also some important additions to be made to this area:
Signalmen's Shelters- This is a new discovery andan important addition. Its shown in yellow in the photo to the right. In 1940, narrow enclosures were built on this deck- one to port and one to starboard. They were situated between the HACS Mk III* pedestals (parts E21) and the side of the bridge (parts A8/A9 and A10/A11... the rear parts of the Conning Tower Platform above this level. This area is shown in page 14 of the kit instructions). They were literally attached to the tube part of the HACS Mk III* mounts (green area in the photo to the right) and the lower sides of the Conning Tower Platform (red area in the photo to the right). These shelters were about the same width as the HACS Mk III* pedestal "tube". The shelters will go from the deck to just beneath the actual HACS (leave room for the HACS to rotate. There will be a small door in the shelter's rear very close to the HACS pedestal. Of course, before you can do this work, you will first need to modify a portion of the Conning Tower Platform (see below). Click here to see a schematic of the shelters. - HACS Mk III* Directors- These are much nicer than those in any previous model, but are still a bit basic in shape. They could benefit from extra detail work such as underhanging boxes, extended collar around the upper rear, view ports on the front, etc. It should also be noted that the dome top covers were rarely ever used. That being said, the top surface could benefit from detailing as well. Click here to view an official schematic of the director's exterior.
Conning Tower Platform- Another key change. See the page 14 of the kit instructions. In the lower right hand corner you can see the assembly of the Conning Tower Platform. You need to make modifications specifically to parts A8 and A10. Basically, remove the little square outcroppings on the lower/rear corner. Basically, remove the little feature on the lower/rear corner. In reality, the bulkheads were vertically flat...nothing sticking out (other than voice pipes and of course, the Signalmen's Shelters mentioned above). There was also nothing sticking out to the rear at the bottom (most drawings/plans of this area are incorrect). There were, however, some liquid tanks mounted on the rear sides of the aft portion.
Admiral's Bridge (A18)- This is part A18 (page 16 of the kit instructions). Remove the two small "knobs". These were gone by 1940. Also, I suggest detailing the rear portions of parts A21 and A22. There were actually screens with large rectangular/square-like openings through them. Please note that canvas covered railings were used on the Admiral's Bridge deck but only until early 1941. If modelling Hood as sunk, you will need to add a metal splinter shield around this deck instead! This shield was slightly taller in height than the shield in front of the platform.
Forebridge, Compass Platform, Air Defence Platforms- These decks are close, but not quite accurate. A few minor modifications are necessary. The deck aft of the Compass Platform was actually about 2 ft higher in elevation. It was also partially enclosed (at the front) by a segment of splintershield. It may be possible to carry out these changes using plastic strip stock. Additionally, Trumpeter did not include a walkway gap between the forward and rear Air Defence Platforms. Lastly, the rear Air Defence Platform was only enclosed by splintershields to port and starboard. The forward and rear ends were open (Trumpeter moulded one of these ends closed). This can be easily fixed through careful cutting and sanding.
This area is quite prominent and careful attention to detail should be paid. That being said, it might be worth the effort to put in some additional detailing such as underside support pillars for the rear Air Defence Platform (wire or tube styrene), voice pipes (using tube styrene), plus various instruments using plastic stock and photoetch.The addition of the 6 pedestal mounted binoculars to the forward Air Defence Platform and 2 such mounts to the rear Air Defence Platform would be a particularly nice touch. Replace all ladders with photoetch as well. Be sure to add the port and starboard lights to the forward edges of the rounded side protrusions at the outer edges of the Forebridge (A26).
Spotting Top/Starfish/Foremast- Generally accurate. The only major exception are the shapes of the small side platforms (these were rectangular, not rounded) and the rear "corners" of the starfish deck platform. In reality, these were very rounded in shape (click here to see a rough diagram). This feature is shown in period photos of the ship as well as images of the wreck. The upper rear legs of the tripod mast (part B5) could use some additional detailing for the cable trunking. This could be accomplished with sheet styrene. The starfish platform (part B6) under the spotting top is a bit thick but will be sufficient for most modellers. It is missing a support brace between the rear arms (see the wreck image above). We are as yet unclear if this brace was horizontal or was actually the remnants of the former upper foremast base. Those wishing for high detail can always replace the kit's forward starfish with aftermarket photoetch. Of course, bear in mind that no after market photoetch is currently 100% correct with regard to the shape or the spotting top starfish platform. It will need to be augmented. There are some other key changes and additions here:
- Spotting Top Windows- This is part B8. The windows are a bit too small and are not squared enough. Additionally, the top of this piece (the Spotting Top roof) is too flat in the forward area. It was slightly arched. The forward roof also does not overhang the windows as it should. In short, its a bit too basic and this is a notable problem. Suggest altering the windows and roof overhang with sheet styrene and photoetch (photoetch could possibly be used for the windows). with aftermarket photoetch or styrene. These windows are not square or quite large enough. Additionally, the top of this piece is too flat. It also does not have the roof overhanging the windows.
- Radar Hood- This is a new discovery. This is made up of parts D34 and D36. Remove the small "box" from the left rear of part D34. Fill-in the hole that remains. The port corner should be a mirror image of the starboard corner. There was no box here...for years, plans had been based upon partial photos and an optical illusion. In reality, the roof was raised slightly in the left rear corner. With the exception of this instance of a raised roof, the overall dimensions of the hood remained the same as always. This can be seen in the rough schematic to the right. The area in red (and yellow) is the raised section of roof.
We also suggest replacing the radar elements with aftermarket photoetch. Be careful though- most photoetch depicts the Type 284 radar as "flat". In reality the Type 284 had a central antenna which was open at the front (with numerous vertical bars and covered by canvas) and more or less curved at the rear. This was attached to a framework at the sides (with hexagonal panels) and from behind (by bars). This framework was connected at the rear to vertical supports which were attached to the rotating hood below. Click here to see a photo of Type 284s aboard ships. - Add a Platform to Hood's foremast starfish- Another new discovery. There was a platform fitted on the starboard side of the starfish, along the side of the Spotting Top, between the starboard/forward arm and the small signal light platform just aft of starboard/centre. The platform is narrow and has supports beneath it as well as a railing on top. At the forward end of the platform is a ladder rising up the side of the spotting top. Cut a notch in the overhanging roof here. In the top photo to the right, you can see the Spotting Top and starfish platform. Below this, you can see an annotated photo showing the location of the new platform (green), its underside supports (blue), its railing (red) and the ladder up the side of the Spotting Top (yellow).
Amidships/Aft Structures
Funnels- Largely correct, but suggest hollowing out caps (parts F8) and replacing the funnel grilles with photoetch. Two minor details that can be added near the second funnel are the coppersmith and blacksmith's shop exhaust funnels. These are easily added using plastic tubing or wire.
Tubes near forward pom-pom guns- (parts E32...see page 14 of the kit instructions). Cut off the straight tube portion of each. Also be sure each has a flat top (round when viewed from above).
Motorboat Workshop- This is just behind the second funnel. The square features atop B28 are windows. Trumpeter mistakenly put grilles/mesh over these. They were NOT mesh covered, but had canvas curtains hanging inside (we sent Trumpeter a schematic of this structure). Also, be sure to remove the door and ladder from part B26. The only (currently) known door and ladder were on the opposite side. Please be aware that some of the aftermarket photoetch producers instruct modellers to place photoetch mesh over these windows...this is not correct! Again, they were curtained windows.
Engine Vents- The square engine room vent (parts B39, B40 and B47) located between the main mast and the After Superstructure is not shaped correctly. This vent no longer had an overhanging roof. It looked more like the vent just behind the After Superstructure. Additionally, all of these vents could use mesh detail from an aftermarket photoetch set. Click here to see an image showing this vent on the real ship.
Mainmast- The mainmast starfish is shaped incorrectly. We suggest replacing starfish platform (part D7), main derrick pulleys (the bumps on part D6) and tackle plus the Type 279M radar assembly (the two small items near the top of part D5) with aftermarket photoetch. Add the diesel exhaust pipe up the port rear tripod leg using wire or tube styrene. A rough schematic showing the correct layout of the mainmast starfish is shown to the right.
After Superstructure- The splintershield between the two upper level searchlight platforms (on the side that faces the mainmast) on part D16 is too low. This should be raised slightly in height using plastic stock. Put canvas over the square windows around the lower rear of the structure (sheet styrene). Do not blend them into the structure, but make it look like the windows are merely covered. There is also a slight problem on the port side where the structure is indented (D11). There is a sharp edge at the top of the indent...this beam should be angled inward actually. Also suggest drilling out the doorways to the side searchlight platforms on parts D11 and D12. These doorways are right above where parts D17 and D18 attached. Add cruciform supports to the HACS Mk III* director pedestal (part E20) atop the structure. Also suggest detailing the HACS Mk III* (see earlier comments on this). Click here to see an image showing suggested corrections. Lastly, there is some external detail missing (i.e., slight "bulges" below the lower searchlight platforms, cabling, etc. This can be added with plastic stock.
Pom Pom Bandstand- The bandstand (part B46) for the aft pom-pom (aka "Auntie") has two hatches mistakenly moulded into it. Remove them and replace them with boxes. Additionally, the support/base of the bandstand (parts B31 and B32) is shaped completely wrongly. It was not rounded, but was actually angular. This can probably be remedied with sheet styrene. There were also at least two splintershields UNDER the bandstand as well. One was under the forward "flat" end and one was under the port side of the bandstand. Both shields extended from the deck to the bottom of the bandstand.
Rear Screens- These are the large vertical areas below the rear of the Boat Deck and at the front of the quarterdeck (parts C9 and C14). The large rectangular opening in these areas were not identical - the portside opening was slightly wider. The opening on part C9 needs to be widened slightly (closer to the outer port corner). The positions of the portholes are close but some appear to be slightly off. This can easily be remedied with a set of plans and a drill though.
Boats
The boats are all somewhat under-detailed, but this is not surprising as Trumpeter had little to no reference material in this area. It may be possible to augment some boats with photoetch, or replace them with aftermarket parts. Of course, some shortcuts can be taken as well- Hood's small motor boats, Admirals Barge and open row boats were usually canvas covered. This will help you reduce the amount of time spent on detailing the kit.
Other Suggestions
Here are some other general detailing suggestions:
- Replace all ladders (inclined and vertical), cable/hose reels, wiring, etc, with photoetch.
- Add voice tubes with thin wire or strip stock
- Add eletrical cable trunking, foot holds/hand holds around key superstructure items, metal plating, rigols over portholes/scuttles, etc.
- Replace mast yards, flag staffs, etc., with photoetch, wire or strip stock
- Add photoetch to all the ready use ammunition lockers (most of these boxes appear to have sinkholes/injector marks in their rears...be sure to fill these.
- Don't over weather the ship when painting it. See our article on the Paint Schemes of H.M.S. Hood, 1920-1941
Photos of Completed Kit
Shown here are various examples of completed Trumpeter 1/350 Hoods. Additional photos of other examples can be seen in our Models Gallery.
Above & Below- Tim Hanbury's super-detailed Trumpeter 1/350 scale Hood.
This shows what excellent results can be achieved with this kit and additional detailing work.
Kit Build
You can read an article detailing the construction of this kit by clicking here.
Aftermarket Parts
A number of photoetch manufacturers have created parts for this kit. We have put together an alphabetically sorted cursory list below. If you know of something we have omitted, please be sure to let us know.
Gold Medal Models
1/350 Trumpeter Hood (350-57) photoetch set: custom fitted and pre-shaped main deck railing with pre-positioned cutouts for chocks, diagonal braces, & turnbuckle detailing; pre-sized specialized railing in all the correct styles for upper decks with diagonal braces, turnbuckle detailing, & simulated canvas covering where necessary; extra lengths of matching 2-bar & 3-bar railing for custom work; correct size vertical ladders; watertight doors in the correct sizes and in two styles including open and closed versions; inclined ladders in all required sizes with detailed footplates; specialized inclined ladders with platform braces for Admiral's Cabin; detailed Admiral's Cabin window covers; "HOOD" nameplate letters with alignment jig; highly accurate Type 279 and Type 284 radar antennas; boat crane rigging and hooks in choice of stowed and working positions; small crane rigging; details for 2 pdr Pom-Pom guns including elevation rings, gunsights, ammo box covers, & pre-shaped guardrails; detailed side panels for 4" .45 cal. guns & .50 cal. machine gun mounts; pre-shaped see-through screens for all intake uptakes; paddles plus see-through bottoms for life rafts; highly detailed replacement yardarms in the correct shapes for both masts; funnel cap grilles for both funnels; rudders, oars, & 3-D relief-etched fold-to-shape crutches (chocks) for all ship's boats; detail for davits, griping spars, & jumping nets for two seaboats; detailed awning stanchions in bipod and tripod styles with matching drilling jigs for both; fold-to-shape cable reels in three sizes; anchor chain capstan brake wheels; replacement aerial spreaders; two leadsman's platforms; ladder well railings; two quarterdeck hatches with fold-to-shape canvas cover frames; four accommodation ladders with detailed davits, rigging, and footplates with the name "HOOD" embossed in surface; three anchor hawsepipe cover screens; highly accurate replacement degaussing cable with correct shapes and clip arrangement including full-size drawings for modifying raised plastic hull plating above hawsepipes to the correct shape; pre-shaped Jacobs ladders for boat booms. Extra turnbuckles, eyebolts, & hand wheels are provided for custom work. A detailed 3-D relief-etched figure of VADM L. E. Holland is also included. Numerous spare parts are furnished in the event of loss or damage. Note from website staff: The Type 284 radar is not correct. To correct this part, you need to remove the veritcal supports from the face of the upper radar antenna and attach them to the rear of said antenna.1/350 Gold PLUS Hood Extra Details (350-37A): Augments main photoetch set (extra detailed parts for expert modellers). Contains Additional watertight doors in the correct sizes and in two styles including open and closed versions; additional fold-to-shape crutches (chocks) for all ship's boats; complete set of 3-D relief-etched skylight covers for U.P. deck; highly accurate replacement davits and griping spars for two seaboats in choice of stowed and deployed positions; 3-D relief-etched thwarts and internal stern gratings for ship's boats; additional detailed awning stanchions in bipod and tripod styles with matching drilling jigs for both; additional small handling davits in several styles; see-through window frames for fighting top; detailed fold-to-shape night life buoys with stowage racks; 3-D relief etched tampions for 15" gun barrels; boat boom brackets for hull sides; highly detailed aircraft catapult and launching shuttle for 1929 - 1932 Hood; struts and propellers for Fairey floatplane provided for scratchbuilders; highly detailed aircraft recovery crane with rigging and hooks for 1929 - 1932 Hood; X-turret aircraft platform sections; detailed jackstaff with bullnose and ensign staff including braces & anchor lights; Extra eyebolts are provided for custom work. Numerous spare parts are furnished in the event of loss or damage.
Lion Roar
Click here to read our review of this detail set.Tom's Modelworks
1/350 Trumpeter Hood photoetch set: Designed specifically for Trumpeter's 1/350 scale Hood. Contains assorted railings; funnel cap grilles; degaussing cable; vertical and inclined ladders and accompanying platforms; boat crutches, boat interior parts, yardarms; pom-pom railings, Type 279 and Type 284 radar; boat davis; vent grilles; the ship's name and more.White Ensign Models
1/350 Hood photoetch set (#PE 3514): Designed specifically for Trumpeter's 1/350 scale Hood. Includes: Guard Rails, 0.5" Quad machine guns, 8 barrel Pom-Poms, Spotting Top starfish assembly, Anchors, Life buoy Racks, Mainmast rigging, Jack and Ensign Staffs, Main boat boom tackle, various davits, Semaphores, Various ladders, 284 and gunnery radar, Main director arm stays, Stern boarding pole, Searchlight lens cruciforms, Type 279 radar assembly, Spotting top yardarms, Funnel Cap grilles, Foredeck ladders, Wireless House Aerial Spreaders, Mainmast Starfish Assembly, Funnel Housing Vent grilles, Spotting top Station lights and Aerial Spreader, Degaussing Cables, Anchor Cables, Boarding Ladders, Vertical and Inclined Ladders doors hatches, tampions, Hood badge for display base and more. Note from website staff: The Type 284 radar is not correct. To correct this part, you need to remove the veritcal supports from the face of the upper radar antenna and attach them to the rear of said antenna. Additionally, do not use the foremast starfish piece. The deck shape is quite incorrect (its missing the large round rear corners and several protrusions).1/350 HMS Hood Main Turrets: Resin turrets designed to replace the flawed examples in the Trumpeter kit.
1/350 8 Barrelled Pom-poms (PRO 3509): Resin pom-pom mounts for the Trumpeter kit. They also have resin UP parts available.
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