Box art for the Trumpeter kit
Background
Hood "as sunk" has been a popular choice among modelers for years. One of the most popular small scale Hood kits was Tamiya's 1/700 scale waterline series offering. Based on information available at the time of its creation, it served as one of the best Hood models for many years. Over time, it started to show it's age: newly discovered information rapidly changed Hood's known final appearance. Additionally, modeling technology improved. The time was perfect for a new Hood in this scale.
Trumpeter answered the call for a new model. They easily downscaled their successful 1/350 scale Hood model design into 1/700 scale. Unfortunately, there were some errors present in the 1/350 design. Trumpeter were aware of this, so they once again sought out the assistance of experts on the ship to include a certain member of our website staff (me).
In addition to the known errors, there was also a fair bit of newly uncovered information concerning Hood's final appearance (things not in any books, plans or models). This information was relayed to Trumpeter and they finalised the design. By mid 2007, the moulds were built and test pressings made. I received my sample at that time. I reviewed this model and provided final inputs to Trumpeter shortly thereafter.
The Trumpeter version of the kit was released to the western world in November 2007. The Pit Road version of the kit will be released in Asia in March 2008. Please check with a local or online hobby retailer of your choice for latest prices and availability.
Moulding & Detail
I've had absolutely no time to build the kit, but have looked over the parts in the sample quite closely. The kit consists of approximately 400 injection moulded plastic pieces (429 pieces per Trumpeter). Keeping with standard Trumpeter practice, there is the option to build the ship in either waterline or full hull format. The parts above the waterline are in grey and the parts below are in red. There were 8 sprues, 4 large deck segments, upper hull, lower hull and a waterline plate in my sample. Although the sample did not include them, I know that the production kit includes a detailed instruction manual, colour painting guidelines and decals.
Overall, I am impressed: Trumpeter corrected many errors and added many of the updated details we had provided. Based on my examination of the test pressing, I feel that this kit is extremely good overall. The construction is a bit complex in some areas, the moulding is a bit thick in spots and there are still a few minor errors, but it is still a wonderful model. I can honestly highly recommend this model as it is, at this point in time, the most accurate kit of Hood (as sunk) yet released in any scale. It clearly "trumps" Tamiya's old kit.
Notable errors and new discoveries are covered below. Also included are some suggestions on how to correct or improve the kit.
Important Note- This kit is quite excellent straight from the box. It should be good as-is for the average modeller. As with any model kit, it could greatly benefit from additional detailing, but it is by no means necessary. As I always say, it's what YOU the modeller wants that counts. If you are happy with a basic out of the box build, then that is fine. If you want to build something a bit more detailed and accurate, do read on. Remember that this article is merely meant to point out problems so that you, the modeller, can take corrective steps as you see fit.
I should make it clear that this review is not based upon a production model. It's based upon the aforementioned sample that Trumpeter provided me. It is possible (though unlikely due to budget and time constraints) that Trumpeter has since corrected some of the items mentioned below. As I have not yet seen the production model, I have no way of knowing. If -once I do receive a production kit- I find that anything differs, I'll be sure to alter this article accordingly.
Corrections & Suggestions for Improvement
Upper Hull
The hull appears to be correct in shape and size. When one compares the hull to its larger 1/350 scale sister, there are some notable differences: Trumpeter wisely omitted the detailed hull plating and degaussing cable as these would have been grossly out of scale at this size (modellers can always add photoetch degaussing cables if they wish). Trumpeter did include a nicely moulded armour belt and torpedo mantlets. Click on the image to the right to see the belt/mantlet details.
One major issue noted was that the sides of the hull (where one inserts the deck pieces) seem excessively thick. This was especially the case in the bow/focsle area. As for the hawse pipes on the sides of the hull, these are largely correct, but would look better if drilled out and mated to the hawse pipes on the focsle deck piece. More on this issue below
Decks
Forecastle (Focsle)- This part, shown in the image to the right (click to enlarge), is a bit "off" as a result of the excessive hull sides thickness. It's a tad narrow at it's widest point. Because of this, the starboard sheet anchor hawse pipe (the second/rear on on the starboard side) is too small. In reality, it was identical in size to the other two focsle deck hawse pipes Most modellers can certainly live with this minor error, but those of you wanting extreme accuracy may have to make modifications. We suggest carefully drilling and filing the opening after gluing the deck piece to the hull (the drilling/filing will have to reach slightly into the inner edge of the hull in order to make the hawse pipe opening the correct size). As always, it would be wise to add/augment additional detail using aftermarket photoetch parts (i.e., anchor cables and hatches).
Enclosed Forecastle Deck- This is the large lower centre deck piece. It's quite accurate overall. It's a tad narrow at the very front due to the extreme hull thickness, but this is negligible. Additionally, some of the small mushroom vents (and possibly some winches) are slightly out of place or missing in the area around "A" barbette. This of course is hardly noticeable and can probably be left as is. It has one key error that must be addressed- it is missing some tall upright vents from the front of "B" barbette. These should be added using styrene strip stock.
Shelter Deck- This part is largely accurate. If so desired, the hatches can be replaced with photoetch. Some of the small upright vents are a tad out of scale as well. This is understandable due to the scale and moulding limitations though. Most are acceptable as is. The only two small vents that need notable attention are the twin hooded vents located just ahead of the centre-rear splinter shield. These are shown in blue in the photo to the right. These need to be as tall as the splinter nearby splinter shield.
Quarterdeck- Nicely done. One hatchway needs to be added near the forward-starboard side of "X" barbette. Once could also possibly add some tiny upright vents that appear to be missing around "Y" barbette. If so desired, photoetch can be used to enhance hatches and skylights. The rear hawse pipe can also be drilled out.
Armament/Guns
15" Main Gun Houses/Turrets- The four main gun houses (C5 & C8) are much better than their 1/350 scale counterparts. As the photo to the right illustrates, they are still a bit too angular in appearance however. This can be remedied with careful sanding/shaping. Trumpeter provided the option of barrels with or without blast bags. This 
is a particularly nice touch.
- "X" Gun House Platforms- These were not solid/flat platforms. They were actually framework platforms made up of square segments with X cross beams in the centre of each square. Replace these with correct photoetch once it is available. To date, no photoetch provider has gotten said parts right though...
- Vents on "B" and "X" Gun Houses- These gun houses each had a pair of slim vents that were attached to their rear bulkheads. Although it may be a tad out of scale, these can be replicated with very slim strip styrene.
Twin 4" Secondary Armament- These seven mounts (D3, D23 & D25) are largely correct in shape and size. Due to the scale, some components are a bit thick, but should be acceptable for most modellers. It's likely that aftermarket parts can be incorporated into these assemblies to enhance details.
UP Rocket Launchers- The five UP launchers assemblies (D14 & D15) suffer from a lack of detail, but this is because of the scale. Most modellers can use them as is, but there are aftermarket replacement parts available for anyone so inclined.
Pom-pom Anti-Aircraft Guns- The three pom-poms (C43, C44 & C45) are nicely done considering the small scale. They are a bit thickly moulded, but again, this is to be expected at this scale. They can, if wished, be made more accurate with or even replaced by aftermarket replacement parts. Most modellers however, should find the kit guns acceptable.
0.5" Machine Guns- The pedestals are quite nice, but the guns (D4) should be replaced with photoetch as they are excessively bulky looking. Use the shielded versions.
Forward Superstructure/Bridge
Conning Tower- The view port slits are not entirely correct. On the actual ship, these were the same height. They are not so configured on the model. One row in particular is too tall- the ones created by adding part B51 to part G32. This is of course, a notable error and it could be difficult to fix.
When finishing the Conning Tower, please take care to fill the seams. In the case of the 1/350 model, most people have not attempted to hide seams. The gaps can detract somewhat from the appearance of the finished model. At this smaller scale it would appear even worse. This is arguably Hood's most notable feature, so great attention to detail should be paid towards modelling it correctly.
Bridge Base/Admirals Signal Platform- This is formed from various parts. My comments only apply to the deck portion (part F20). This is largely correct, but could use some detailing aft. I suggest augmenting or replacing the signal flag lockers (the four rectangular features at the very rear of part F20...they are in blue in the photo to the right) with photoetch. There are also some important items that need to be added to this area:
HACS Mk III* Directors- These (Parts C18) are a bit basic in shape. They could benefit from extra detail work such as under hanging boxes, extended collar around the upper rear, view ports on the front, etc. They are still clearly superior to the directors in the old Tamiya kit though.
Other Bridge Decks- These are sufficiently correct. If so desired, one can add additional detailing such as styrene voice pipes or photoetch ladders, doors and rails. Please note that canvas covered railings were used on the Admiral's Bridge deck (Part F17). Additional details to consider adding are the navigation lights, cable trunking on the tripod legs, the additional internal splintershields aft of the Compass Platform, etc.
Spotting Top/Starfish/Foremast- Quite accurate in shape. Due to the small scale, the starfish (Part F18) is moulded a tad thick, but this is acceptable for most modellers. Anyone wishing ultra-accuracy can replace the starfish with photoetch. Important- we've yet to see accurate photoetch of a starfish. Not a single producer got it right for the 1/350 scale kit, but we are hoping they make the necessary corrections for the 1/700 scale kit. Please check the shape very carefully and make sure it is the same (albeit slimmer) than the kit's starfish. If it's wrong, don't add it.
Type 284 Radar- We suggest replacing the radar elements (G6 & G19) with aftermarket photoetch. Be careful though- most photoetch depicts the Type 284 radar as "flat". In reality the Type 284 had a central antenna which was open at the front (with numerous vertical bars and covered by canvas) and more or less curved at the rear. This was attached to a framework at the sides (with hexagonal panels) and from behind (by bars). This framework was connected at the rear to vertical supports which were attached to the rotating hood below. Click here to see a photo of similar Type 284 antennas aboard ships.- Bridge Rafts- Recently discovered photos of Hood taken in Spring 1941 (some showing her en route to fight Bismarck) indicate that the positions of some of her Carley Floats (C35) had changed. Particularly those mounted on the forward angled portion of the lower bridge (A21 & A26). For most of her wartime service Hood carried two rafts on each side just aft of the conning tower. In early 1941, these were removed and mounted elsewhere. The top rafts were moved just a few meters aft, but the lower rafts were moved much farther aft and were slung alongside stacks of rafts atop the vents below the first funnel (A11). This can be clearly seen in the 22 May 1941 photo to the right.
Amidships/Aft Structures
Funnels- Largely correct, but suggest hollowing out caps (C41) and replacing the funnel cages with photoetch.
Mainmast- The mainmast starfish (B35), shown in the image to the right, is shaped correctly. Nevertheless, due to the medium and scale, the underside is moulded a bit thick. We suggest replacing starfish platform, main derrick pulleys and tackle plus the Type 279M radar assembly with aftermarket photoetch. Add the diesel exhaust pipe up the port rear tripod leg using wire or tube styrene. A rough schematic showing the correct layout of the mainmast starfish is shown to the right.
After Superstructure- Put canvas over the square windows around the lower rear of the structure (G4 & G5). This can be done with squares of sheet styrene. Do not blend them into the structure, but make it look like the windows are merely covered. There is also a slight problem on the port side where the structure is indented (G4). There is a sharp edge at the top of the indent...this beam should be angled inward actually. Also suggest drilling out the doorways to the side searchlight platforms on parts G4 and G5. These doorways are right above where parts F5 and F6 attach. Add cruciform supports to the HACS Mk III* director pedestal atop the structure. Also suggest detailing the HACS Mk III* (see earlier comments on this). Click here to see an image showing suggested corrections.
Pom Pom Bandstand- The bandstand (G1) is nicely done. As mentioned earlier, the only major issue is it's base (G25). Trumpeter made this the correct shape, but oriented it 90 degrees too far to the left. Modellers will need to remove the raised portion on the Shelter Deck piece, plus change the underside of the pom pom bandstand itself, then rotate the base 90 degree to the right. This is a major error and really needs to be fixed. Be sure to add two splinter shields under the bandstand as well. One was under the forward "flat" end and one was under the port side of the bandstand. Both shields extended from the deck to the bottom of the bandstand.
Boats
The boats are all somewhat under-detailed, but this is not surprising as Trumpeter had little reference material in this area. Understandably, the scale makes it difficult to include much moulded in detail. It may be possible to augment some boats with photoetch, or replace them with aftermarket parts. Of course, some shortcuts can be taken as well- Hood's small motor boats, Admirals Barge and open row boats were usually canvas covered. I recommend taking advantage of this fact. It should save some modelling time!
Other Suggestions
As always, just about any 1/700 scale ship model can benefit from additional detailing. The following are some generic suggestions:
- Replace all ladders (inclined and vertical), cable/hose reels, wiring, etc, with photoetch.
- Add voice tubes with thin wire or strip stock
- Replace mast yards, flag staffs, etc., with photoetch, wire or strip stock
- Add photoetch railings
- Don't over weather the ship when painting it. See our article on the Paint Schemes of H.M.S. Hood, 1920-1941
Photos of Completed Kit
Photos of completed Trumpeter 1/700 scale Hoods can be seen in our Models Gallery. We hope to add even more, so if you've finished this model, please send us some shots!
Kit Build
If anyone has built this kit and would like to share the experience, please let us know. We'll gladly add an article here.
Aftermarket Parts
There are a number of existing photoetch sets for Hood, as sunk, in 1/700 scale. Unfortunately all are quite dated (and therefore inaccurate in varying degrees). They are also based upon the Tamiya 1/700 Hood which is not an exact match for the new Trumpeter kit. While this won't pose a major problem for some details (rails, hatches, etc), there are serious issues with things like starfish platforms, degaussing cables, radars, etc. Beyond the photo etch, there are some decent exisiting resin aftermarket parts. These should work just fine with this model. To see a current list of products, please see our review of the old Tamiya 1/700 scale Hood.
Will there be any photoetch or parts designed specifically for the new Trumpeter 1941 Hood in 1/700 scale? It's not clear. It doesn't appear that Gold Medal Models or White Ensign Models are willing to prodcue anything new. For understandable financial reasons, they will try to push their existing stock on modellers. That's fine, but please bear in mind the problems I mentioned in the previous paragraph. I for one can only hope that they will change their minds or otherwise that Toms, Eduard, LionRoar or one of the other producers will sieze this opportunity to create something new/up-to-date and specific for this kit. As always, I would be happy to help. In the meantime, if you want new photoetch parts, start contacting your favourite producers and let them know that their current products aren't good enough and that they need to release new ones!
Other Reviews (Alphabetically Sorted)
- We will add links to other reviews as they become available.